tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29070294.post914819590084018848..comments2024-03-22T07:20:37.601+00:00Comments on Dave MacLeod blog: Tempest in a teacupDave MacLeodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02442169589581067050noreply@blogger.comBlogger13125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29070294.post-22629028588729405632010-03-16T17:02:23.754+00:002010-03-16T17:02:23.754+00:00Hi Dave, great ascent !
There'a another "...Hi Dave, great ascent !<br />There'a another "tempest in a teacup" going wild on the RockClimbing.com forum on weather or not it was an onsight. It would be interesting to read your comments on the subject.<br /><br />http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=2300622Laurentiu Anghelhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02164832204890306183noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29070294.post-85913721737059111942010-03-15T15:29:39.561+00:002010-03-15T15:29:39.561+00:00Thanks everyone for the comments
As for the comme...Thanks everyone for the comments<br /><br />As for the comment about grading. I'm not intimidated by anyone else into grading or not grading my routes. The difference with hard trad routes from other climbing levels and disciplines is the lack of routes at a similar level to make comparisons. There are very few people climbing above grade IX in winter and E10 in summer and very few routes at these grades. And there is no hurry to grade them, from me anyway, because it's not important. It's enough to say a route feels like the hardest you've done. Everyone knows what routes you've done, so a deduction that a route like Echo Wall or Anubis is hard is all you need really.Dave MacLeodhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02442169589581067050noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29070294.post-43800498627468690212010-03-10T12:53:34.788+00:002010-03-10T12:53:34.788+00:00Awesome! I miss some mixed action on the alpine wa...Awesome! I miss some mixed action on the alpine walls...Constantin Gaborhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02165383860587045257noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29070294.post-67613624506031841622010-03-10T07:23:08.231+00:002010-03-10T07:23:08.231+00:00Grant Wallace
Well done Dave. Again u impress me ...Grant Wallace<br /><br />Well done Dave. Again u impress me no end. You're an inspiration to us all!<br /><br />Good to see some other climbers helping u out also. Well done Matt and Nic!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29070294.post-78137431779729632552010-03-09T20:30:29.896+00:002010-03-09T20:30:29.896+00:00Great job! Congratulations.Great job! Congratulations.Günther Van Lanyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13621766032941942353noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29070294.post-15312283314587256432010-03-09T10:45:17.618+00:002010-03-09T10:45:17.618+00:00You said you saw neil working some of the moves fr...You said you saw neil working some of the moves from across the way, so doesn't that mean you can't claim an onsight? ;-)<br /><br />(just incase people are wondering that was a joke, good work Mr McCleod!!)Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29070294.post-56608439717777854332010-03-09T09:24:40.676+00:002010-03-09T09:24:40.676+00:00Congratulations dave, very impressive indeed.
BTW...Congratulations dave, very impressive indeed.<br /><br />BTW. for what its worth, i think you should put grades to your recent ascents and not be imtimidated into keeping quiet by the media and negative people. I appreciate there are issues with first ascentionist not knowing exactly what grade their routes are (its always been the same, but that doesn't stop most other people giving grades to their routes), and also that the grade is not everything (far from it), but the majority of people understand you are an honest and thoughtful guy and you should feel proud to asign the correct grade to your routes. To hell with the people who can't handle it.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29070294.post-51071478535821528182010-03-08T18:14:54.670+00:002010-03-08T18:14:54.670+00:00One of the things that has always impressed me the...One of the things that has always impressed me the most about you, Dave, is the way that you handle 'ethics'. <br /><br />By that I don't mean that you're the most ethical climber around. It's just the way that you, quite sensibly in my opinion, rationalise the ethics you apply in a given situation (and are honest about them!). Of course, at your level there will always be people who are quick to shoot you down for not doing it 'their way'. <br /><br />A note to the detractors of headpointing in the UK, nicely highlighted by this ascent: How how will the trad wonder-kids of the future onsight E10, 11, 12 or 13 if those lines haven't been established on headpoint? In just the same way - while we're here applauding Dave's onsight lead of this, let us remember Neil. I wasn't on the scene, but I imagine he took all sorts of sh#t for his 'lack of ethics' - but he opened up a brilliant line, suggested a grade and confirmed that it was, for the gnarly, a 'safe' and climbable proposition. <br /><br />Who in their right minds would set off up a line like this, Anubis or Echo Wall in a pure attempt to establish a new route, ground up, onsight. Only the suicidal, I'd suggest.<br /><br />For all of the sh#t you read on UKC you'd think the Scottish trad crags are heaving with trad-superstars with only the purest of ethics. Yet, whenever I head out into the hills I'm usually the only person at the crag. Bouldering seems to be popular, though, above multiple mats.<br /><br />BenMcBendyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16997904549109525107noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29070294.post-69578364677734034132010-03-08T17:32:50.679+00:002010-03-08T17:32:50.679+00:00What an achievement and process! Very well done, ...What an achievement and process! Very well done, Dave!<br />In downclimbing, did you remember every single sequence (moves and holds) and reverse it, or just make up as you down-climb? I can only guess, whether climbing up or down, it has to be extremely precise at this grade... <br />MasaMasa Sakanohttp://www.flickr.com/photos/alpiniste/noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29070294.post-32318264394416382712010-03-08T17:32:06.158+00:002010-03-08T17:32:06.158+00:00Job well done David - good one!:-)Job well done David - good one!:-)markmcgowan01https://www.blogger.com/profile/01631190408080858589noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29070294.post-91093832790128286412010-03-08T17:30:07.715+00:002010-03-08T17:30:07.715+00:00love it, its like bonatti saying "screw you&q...love it, its like bonatti saying "screw you" by doing his talking on the mountain.barrynoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29070294.post-14193853381840737992010-03-08T14:01:41.531+00:002010-03-08T14:01:41.531+00:00I like the headline! Well done Dave, another terri...I like the headline! Well done Dave, another terrific effort, and one that reveals your character in the wake of recent criticisms. Your decision to downclimb, and your ability to do it successfully, is equally as impressive as the ascent itself.<br /><br />PS. Comforting to know that at one time you struggled on Crest Route too :-)Patrick Romannoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29070294.post-86320249606555307622010-03-08T11:49:10.445+00:002010-03-08T11:49:10.445+00:00Great write up Dave.Great write up Dave.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com