The successful redpoint on my Anvil roof project, Bodyswerve 8c (Hot Aches Images)
Well happy to finally hit that monster finishing jug (Hot Aches Images)Things have been steadily coming together on my second roof project in the Anvil's massive cave. This one is the left hand exit to what Alan anc Robin called "project McF**K" after they had a look at it. Its about 8a up to a decent edge, then hard moves one after the other all the way to the ledge. A superb new foot sequence was the final straw that got me through those last few moves, although I broke a couple of PBs on the fingerboard the night before and got a bit excited that it could go the next day. After one failure, going flying sideways after a violent slip on the last move, next time I hit the jug and screamed! I reckon it's about 8c and I'm certain its the hardest sport route in Scotland now. I've put up some more pics of it in my gallery here. I think Hot Aches video of it should be making an appearance on UK climbing sometime shortly. I'll let you know when I hear its up.
Another big development for me this week was a change to wearing some new shoes from Scarpa. It's obviously extremely important to love your rockshoes as they affect your climbing standard so much. Even more so for me as I'm comparatively weak and need to squeeze every last drop of advantage out of my feet. With Heinz Mariacher designing at Scarpa now their new shoes are somewhat inevitably rather brill, so it was time to move. I've been wearing the same shoes for nearly ten years and it's amazing how used to a certain shape and feel. As I'm now starting to realise trying new ones out on my new route, designs have come on a bit in that time!
Hi, good effort that rute, you should come to spain and enjoy more 8c´s long, short, steep, slabby style....You won´t be disapponited. Madrid, Unai.
ReplyDeletePeace out Dave
Hey Dave. The new Scarpa line-up does look good. So - which model are you wearing? I heard that the fantastic Vision's are being discontinued which seems strange. Do you have any info on that?
ReplyDeleteIt depends on the climbing lee, I swap between the Stix, Magos and Spectros.
ReplyDeleteThe Stix are fantastic performance shoes, excellent on all angles and move types and pretty suupoting for a slipper. They are the best toe-hooking shoes I've ever used by a mile. Toe and heel hooking are my sepciality really. Metalcore and Bodyswerve both had crucial toe hooks so I wore the stix for them.
I'll wear the Magos for anything requiring a bit more stiffness. I wore them on L'odi Social because its a wall climb with some aggressive rockovers onto small holds. I'd tend to wear them for trad climbing where you are on your feet for a long time. I'll also wear them for really aggressive heelhooking.
I wear the Spectros on anything overhanging where the holds are more 'edgy' rather than 'smeary'. They are super stiff and quite radical. The grab on small footholds on steep ground is better than any shoe I've ever tried. They are also the best heels I've ever used for heelhooking on tiny bumps and edges. I wore them on Sanction (I couldn't touch it without them actually!) because its tensiony roof climbing on edges with super marginal heelhooks.
I don't tend to wear the boosters just because I'm not into velcros generally, but they are a nice fitting boot. quite a soft sole.
All this stuff is on here:
http://www.scarpa.co.uk/Products/Climb/All/
As far as I know the new shoes will eventually supersede the old ones, but thats cool because they are better!!!
Very interesting blog....Do you have timberland shoes..Thats great....!!!!!
ReplyDelete