tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29070294.post2588393979440961112..comments2024-03-22T07:20:37.601+00:00Comments on Dave MacLeod blog: If Six Was NineDave MacLeodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02442169589581067050noreply@blogger.comBlogger5125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29070294.post-43921444831765846262007-09-19T12:31:00.000+00:002007-09-19T12:31:00.000+00:00Despite not clearly understanding my first questio...Despite not clearly understanding my first question, you answered it. Impressive. Thanks for taking the time to answer.<BR/><BR/>Dangerous climb vs dangerous ascent--wow, never thought about it that way, but it makes sense, especially if you relate it to other sports like, say snowboarding. When we talk about teaching SB, there are 3 zones of learning: Zone1: rider is performing skills and is on terrain that are familiar, therefore, comfortable. While this may reinforce good technique, no new skills are being learned. Zone 2:Rider is attempting new skills/movements or is riding terrain that is challenging. Rider is stressed but has the skills needed to stay in control. Zone 3: Rider is trying skills and/or riding terrain that is beyond his/her abilities and will avoid injury only if dumb luck intervenes. <BR/><BR/>Obviously, these zones are relative to training, fitness, etc. So, you like to go from a high zone 2 down to, say, a high Zone 1/low Zone 2.<BR/><BR/>Does that make sense?alexhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12995537856802319116noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29070294.post-21841889118144049322007-09-19T00:24:00.000+00:002007-09-19T00:24:00.000+00:00I’m not sure I clearly understand your first quest...I’m not sure I clearly understand your first question, but sure, exploring unknowns – and turning them into ‘knowns’ - is important for me in climbing. Remember that doubt and unknowns do not only relate to danger and falling! They relate to everything that goes into preparing for a climb, from logistics to training to the moves themselves. If Six Was Nine is mortally dangerous if you fall off from a certain place. But that danger is only real if you risk falling off. I didn’t significantly risk falling off because I was able to create enough barriers of safety in my fitness and tactics before climbing it. So I climbed a dangerous route safely.<BR/><BR/>There is a crucial difference between a dangerous route and a dangerous ascent. I try to make safe ascents of dangerous routes. Occasionally, if the reasons are right, I push it a little further so I allow more danger than normal to get up a route I really want, but is so close to my limit. I’ll only do this if it’s really the right time and place. This is what happened on Cairngorm recently.<BR/><BR/>On your second question I think you haven’t understood what I’ve said about comfort (not a criticism btw – it’s a weird thing to get your head round). I haven’t said I want to be comfortable where others are not. Actually I said I want to be comfortable where I am comfortable. Others have nothing to do with it. The ‘natural impulse to turn away’ is something I almost never feel in climbing, unless it’s a crap route not worth dying on. My natural impulse is almost always to do it! If there is a natural impulse to turn away, something is seriously wrongDave MacLeodhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02442169589581067050noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29070294.post-86669053861262046872007-09-18T04:35:00.000+00:002007-09-18T04:35:00.000+00:00This ascent seems to have been a welcome respite f...This ascent seems to have been a welcome respite from the drama of your last. According to this post as well as the comments from the guys at Hot Aches, this particular route was dangerous for you without being hugely risky. Does that sense of "assurance" (slightly tongue-in-cheek usage) change how you feel before and after? That is, how much is nerve, doubt--the unknown--a part of what draws you to this style of climbing? You've mentioned in other posts that the ability to feel comfortable where others would not is important to you, but what about the ability to overcome the natural impulse to turn away?<BR/><BR/>I hope you don't feel like you addressed this in "Early Inspirations" . . .alexhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12995537856802319116noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29070294.post-82270700162974280312007-09-17T09:43:00.000+00:002007-09-17T09:43:00.000+00:00HOLY CRAP! Well done, I was wondering how soon the...HOLY CRAP! Well done, I was wondering how soon the repeat was going to happen. Great post- how is Birkett taking the news that one of his unrepeated routes has been tackled? He too is a huge inspiration to me. Keep up the good work and stay alive.ronhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15048116698239999101noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29070294.post-82949579057722554522007-09-17T08:37:00.000+00:002007-09-17T08:37:00.000+00:00Great stuff Dave. I love the post too - inspirin...Great stuff Dave. I love the post too - inspiring stuff for me to go off with in my head since I'm not sure when I'll next get to read about your adventures. Hope I'll have some stories of my own soon!<BR/><BR/>Emmaalpinedreamerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13997588500771722330noreply@blogger.com