Rediscovering the Glen
I’ve been getting excited about some bouldering projects in Glen Nevis right now. On the Heather Hat boulder I’d always looked at the nice line of slopers coming out of the right side of the roof. Years ago I’d climbed through the first rail and reached out to the lip. This time I managed it a bit more direct, throwing at an incut jug and taking the swing one handed with a staved thumb as the consequence of just not letting go. About Font 7c.
Now the challenge is to stick to the slopes all the way out. Seems like an 8a or 8a+ challenge right now but I still can’t complete one desperate pinching move in the roof. I’ve also been trying to leap horizontally for the good rail in the middle of the roof, at an even harder grade I suspect. Success on this will require the ability to do a dynamic one-armer whilst your body swings past underneath.
In between throwing myself across the roof I’ve been back beavering away researching for various projects for 2008. Lots of new things to learn.
Hey and as we start 2008 I should say thanks for coming to visit here in the past year. I’ll try my best to make this blog bigger and better again in 2008.
Now the challenge is to stick to the slopes all the way out. Seems like an 8a or 8a+ challenge right now but I still can’t complete one desperate pinching move in the roof. I’ve also been trying to leap horizontally for the good rail in the middle of the roof, at an even harder grade I suspect. Success on this will require the ability to do a dynamic one-armer whilst your body swings past underneath.
In between throwing myself across the roof I’ve been back beavering away researching for various projects for 2008. Lots of new things to learn.
Hey and as we start 2008 I should say thanks for coming to visit here in the past year. I’ll try my best to make this blog bigger and better again in 2008.
Hi, came across your blog so I thought I'd say howdy! My hubby and I are 'old' rockclimbers, from back when Ebee shoes were new, and Joshua Tree and Taquitz California were the hang out places in our area before everyone was colour-coordinated. We've been out your way but not for climbing, maybe some day before we're too 'antique'! ;)
ReplyDeleteLove the photos! Happy New Year!
Hi Dave,
ReplyDeleteYour blog has been big and good already - an interesting variety of news and views and it's been good to read some in-depth opinions on cutting edge climbing and climbing philosophy in general. Don't worry about putting too much more effort into it.
Big Respect Dave, Just like to say the sight is pretty good already so no need to worry about that! Just like to big you up for your continued effort to bring climbing to the general public and help bring about the realization of climbing as a recognised sport.
ReplyDeletep.s. Big up for Hell and Back - a climb that is a true reminder of how exciting climbing really is!!
Dave, Good to read your blog, seems like there's still plenty to be thinking about for this years climbing. Was really inspired by the Great Climb on the BBC, and hope to build on last years training - check out my small highland bouldering training wall:
ReplyDeletehttp://climbfest.blogspot.com/
thanks for the reading material also, this should keep the imagination going until there is more daylight. I am hoping to do some more exploring of the Glen Lednoch routes, any suggestions?
cheers
chris
Best wishs for the New year dave, your blog remains one of the best around, good luck with your projects
ReplyDeleteis the uber wall on nevis become serious?