Tuesday, 9 June 2009

The new facility

Quite a few of you were asking if I would post up some pics of my home board as I built it. I was planning to blog as it happened, but sadly I was still sans internet connection so it had to wait.


It’s all done and dusted now and I must say I’m pretty chuffed with it and wearing down the holds already. I filled the room with as much 45 degree board as possible, with a small roof at the end for extended circuits. As well as some of Scott’s Dream Holds (review on the way) and Entreprises crimpers, I enjoyed making some holds out of wood although I’m no skilled woodworker let me tell you. My wood crimps are quite nice creations though. 


The board ended up being about 47 degrees and It’s pretty amazing how such a small angle change makes a big difference to the training effect. I really noticed a gain in body power in a few sessions, and after returning to my familiar 45’ problems at the ice factor, found myself noticeably stronger on big powerful moves.


It’ll take a few months to get used to the board and set a cadre of nice problems, tweak hold positions etc. But it’ll be super interesting to see the longer term effect on my climbing. I’ve waited a long time to take this experiment!


How nice is it though, to have things exactly as I would want them. I spent several years nagging Glasgow Climbing Centre and then the Ice Factor to install a simple fan to keep conditions for training cool and dry to conserve finger skin, but they never went for it.


I’ll keep you posted on the effects of the new facility, and hopefully get some more hold reviews up etc..


making a mess

puss puss oversees the drilling of the panels


DIY'ed out

Feeling like a kid in a climbing hold shop


What do you think?

14 comments:

  1. Good name for a board that, "The Facility". Ominous sounding. Undoubtedly going to aid in lots of future crushing! Looks good.

    Out of curiosity, what are the dimensions?

    Cheers.

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  2. Indeed The 45 board is 3 metres wide and 3.5 metres high (2.65m vertical height gain). With a 1m roof at the end.

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  3. I suppose it's a wee step up from a single campus rung eh? Nice one Dave!

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  4. But whats with the 'Smith' like baldy? Must be the lack of light under that 45! Enjoy ;)

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  5. Claire neglected to attach my normal number four guard before attacking me with the clippers. Doh!

    I'm looking slightly less severe a week later...

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  6. I was wondering the same about the hair!

    Claire, assuming you took the photos, the one of all the holds and Dave at the end of them is really good!

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  7. Anonymous10 June, 2009

    Does the round light flash on and a bell sound when you complete a lap on the board.

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  8. Good work on the board, Dave. You've got me wondering about the horizontal roof as something to add to our 45 deg board at home too - are you making much use of it as a finish to your problems?

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  9. Anonymous11 June, 2009

    I would be interested in those "wood crimps" that you built. Could you post any info on those?
    Cheers,
    Christoph

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  10. Board looks ace Dave. I'm quite envious, not having any space for such a thing myself. Still, my one campus rung is nearly ready.

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  11. Very informative post! Keep the nice job. We would love to see more.

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  13. Ellis Butler Barker26 September, 2010

    How much did it cost you all together?

    Thanks,

    Ellis :)

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