Friday, 25 March 2011

Homing in


Best session yet on my highball project in Glen Nevis today. Wow it felt nice to be able to get up to that crux again, and this time have space to attack the move. Trouble was I think I need a session of getting used to falling from there so I can focus properly on sticking that sloper. Thankfully I seemed to be missing the boulder in the landing zone and rolling in the grass. 
It didn’t help that I left a mat stashed at the crag from yesterday but someone had nicked it. I think a backwards fall onto that boulder could be a rib breaker without at least 4 pads. It’s a bit too much of a trek for 2 trips or carrying that many from the road. It sucks that you can’t leave a pad overnight well covered with rocks without someone nicking it. You always hope climbers wouldn’t do it. They even took the foot towel out of it and left that behind.
Tomorrow I’ll have a day of prep for the next session. Come on!! Time to home in and get down to proper battle. Still no idea if it’s realistic for me. I’ll only know once I stick the sloper if the next move isn’t totally impossible on the link. It feels limit for me on the rope, just having pulled on at the crux. Soloing Sky Pilot next door I realised that falling on the British tech 6b territory above the crux is not an option. I’m not sure how I feel about going for it if I linked through the crux when there by myself. But then, you’d have to, wouldn’t you?

6 comments:

  1. Hopefully, the dishonest rascal that stole your mat is at home now, wracked with guilt and repeating the mantra "oh sh*t, I stole Dave Macleod's mat and now the entire climbing world thinks i'm a scumbag"!!!!

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  2. Unbelievable wideness! Going to have to start name tagging bouldering mats...

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  3. Absolute thieving b*stard/s. Complete scumbag/s. I hate to think some climbers do stuff like this. The Fort Bill scene can't be that big that someone won't be noticed to have suddenly acquired a pad...

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  4. What a Rat. A really sh*te thing to do, especially considering they had to work to get it. Hopefully they'll be nailed, named and shamed soon.

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  5. I do like the idea of putting your name on your mats... no ones going to take one with "Property of Dave MacLeod" written across it.

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  6. Tea Leaf ! I was always told the rule that if you see gear of any kind at a crag, boulder etc to be honest and leave it, plus also you do not know the history of that gear so best avoid it .. also it is just bad karma .. what goes around comes around .. good luck with the route Dave !

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