Arnaud's E10
Excellent video below of Arnaud Petit climbing Black Bean (8b) at Ceuse on trad gear to give an E10 7a. What a lovely looking route. I was wondering if there would ever be a movement towards doing some harder trad on the big famous limestone cliffs in Europe. Toni Arbones always told me that folk told him he was crazy for trying it on Montsant etc. The next level I guess would be to do something like this as a a first ascent of a new line at a high grade without any bolts being in place. I reckon somebody will do it soon.
I don't think it would be anymore impressive if there were no bolts in place. If it was a ground up ascent it would be a little more impressive, but the bolts don't make a difference. Super video :)
ReplyDeleteOf course the bolts make a difference! If they're there and you climb it trad, it lowers the adventure as you could bail and clip the bolts. The old 'just ignore them' argument is a falacy. Being on the sharp end with no bolts to clip is a different and harder head experience. On high grade routes the gear is often sparse and/or poor. Bolts not making a difference? Yeah right...
ReplyDeleteAnd the bolts make another difference (big one): the route was climbed first on the bolts and was well known before going "trad".
ReplyDeleteIt's an interesting sentiment. But it's not as though he's doing it to restore ethic or anything. The bolts stay in place. Plus the style in which he did the climb was hokey. I mean, he can't climb hard wearing 12 cams and slings? A couple of pounds of aluminum and nylon are the difference between sending it and not sending it?
ReplyDeleteThis isn't as inspiring as The Doors video. The one where the crack had been bolted, then led on gear and the bolts were chopped.
7a? english 7a? are you on crack Dave? how many 7B+ blocs do you think there are on this 70 meter 8b/+? its totally naff giving these things stupid British grades!
ReplyDeleteIt was Arnaud's grade (see the video). I have no idea what grade it is. It wouldn't need to be 7B+ to have a 7a move.
ReplyDeletesincere apologies Dave, - Arnaud has the crack habit!
ReplyDeleteWhat an amazing route, good for Arnaud.
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