Tuesday 16 October 2012

Foot notes day 21

The strength of my torn plantar fascia (foot arch) is definitely improving rapidly at the moment. I’m imagining it’s still mid way through forming the immature collagen scar, but the earliest new fibres could already be starting to remodel now. Over the weekend I was able to briefly stand on the bad foot alone, though lent on the lateral side and I can stand up on my toes too, but again only if I lean my foot on it’s lateral side, so it doesn't really count.

The medial side is still too weak to walk without pain, and my heel must be well and truly bashed up as it formed fresh swelling and bad pain from yesterday’s weight bearing experiments. Normal walking is still some way off for me. I have to accept that. I still managed to limp across my kitchen though. So making tea continues to get easier.

On the fingerboard, I have also had great progress which I’m sure must start levelling off soon. I got 6 pull-ups on the Beastmaker monos, 3 on the 45 degree slopers (no cheats of course) and back up to 2.5 one-arms on the big hold. My best ever one arm performance was 4 complete pull-ups on a bar, about 6 or 7 years ago. I’m chuffed to get so much strength back so quickly after so many years avoiding pull-ups. My ultimate goal strength levels are still miles off though, so hopefully I can keep having sessions like they are going just now - noticeably stronger every day. It’s just so nice to finally pick up where I left off with a bit of real strength training that was out of the question for so long.

I think my weight has risen by a kilo or 2 which I’m counting as an achievement considering I’ve been sat on my ass or doing isometric hangs. I’m going to try and get myself a bike shortly. I think I might be able to cycle even in another week or so, and I sure as hell want to start burning some calories, getting outside and clawing back some VO2 max as soon as my foot lets me. Even if I only need to do that for a week or two before walking and climbing gradually take over, it’ll still be worth it to get conditioned again, both in terms of VO2 and body composition.


  1. Do some swimming if you can - be especially good if it's something you normally avoid.

  2. Re. Tea - when my mum broke her ankle we got her a cup with a top on and a lanyard so that she could hang it around her neck which made getting tea from the living room to the kitchen a lot easier!

  3. A bike will be a huge boon to your training. If you really want to avoid any long term injury, splash out the little extra cash and get a fitting. It makes a world of difference and you won't grind your knees to bits in a couple monnths!

  4. Dave, Just a quick one to say thanks for all your climbing, talks and writing over the last few years. You're a huge inspiration to me and many many others. All the best with the injury, I've no doubt you'll come out the other side soon,