Wednesday, 13 March 2019

Vlog #13 Hangboards - what to measure?

"What gets measured, gets managed". Measuring aspects of performance in sport is a good thing, but only if you are measuring the right things and interpreting the data correctly. In this vlog, I draw attention to potential problems with performance metrics in climbing, especially related to basic finger strength, both at an individual level and with normative group data. In the video I talk a lot about fingerboarding. The fingerboard I designed and I'm using in the video is this one, The Edge.


  1. Fantastic info, and very interesting discussion on Font Grade comparison to Lead sport and trad.

  2. It reminds me a little of the idea from 'deliberate practice' of focusing the practice on the most neglected of the important subskills (and having intense focused effort during each round of practice). And the fact that working on your weakest element is not the most fun - especially if your friends want to compare metrics.