Sunday 5 September 2010

Jodicus direct and clean

Starting up Jodicus Direct (without the peg) E7 6c
I was a bit bleary-eyed this morning heading out to meet Richard and Steve for an attack on Wave Buttress after yesterday’s good session at Steall. Yesterday, my ankle managed 90 minutes on steep tensiony climbing before tightening up. Today I was keen to get it moving on a sustained slab and work it a little bit harder.
Wave Buttress had an obvious challenge. In the early nineties Mark Mcgowan crimped his way up the honeycombed wall of Jodicus Direct. But with a pre-placed long sling enabling a peg to be clipped right before the crux, it was a bit of a weird proposition and never got popular. A few years ago the peg was removed but the climb was never re-led. An obvious challenge then to make a clean ascent ‘sans fer’, this time running it out on the 6c crux above an RP3.
I gave it a quick clean and play on the moves to wake myself up and then worried whether it was a good idea as I still in pain walking in tussocky grass at the base of the cliff. What the hell - suck it up. 

I was glad I did. A fine E7 6c. Afterwards all I could do was shuffle off for two dinners and a bath. But who cares.

Richard on Crackattack E3 6a

Steve On The Beach E5 6a


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  2. Grant Farquhar05 September, 2010

    Hi Face, what was the original name? Cheers, Grant

  3. Hi Grant it's not toooo good I'm afraid: "Sly Joins in His Wife's Gay Romps..." E6 6b/c.. sorry! It was a tabloid newspaper headline and I was obviously in a flippant mood. I would also like it know that my blue sling was used to tie of the peg as it stuck out allot and was about 1.5ft long. I got JD to on sight it when he was up with me and confirmed it at E6 6b/c with the peg, so it will be a superb E7 without it and all we need now is someone to baptise it properly with an on-sight! Then "Jodicus/Jodicus Direct/ Sly Joins in His Wife's gay Romps" can rest in peace! and please rename it as it is a fabulous piece of bold crimpsville :-)

  4. No sling on peg when Stork + I both led it back in '91..we abbed in to rectify this!
    We stretched left at break to put bomber gear in to protect move up to peg..I think Mark just had RPs in here? Would this make it still E6 without peg??
    Inspiring effort on the Sron there Dave. The rock quality looked a bit better (less slatey) than on some of it's neighbours?
    Rick Campbell

  5. Both Johnny and I had Rp's well below to get to peg, but I recall the climbing past the peg being the technical crux (6b/c) and the climbing to that point was no harder than 6b, so I would suggest a definite E7 without the peg...especially on sight as it is tenuous climbing and would be difficult to reverse back to gear?...