Monday, 20 February 2012

Boulder moves done!

Since I last spoke about my roof project on the Skeleton boulder, I’ve had another good few sessions on it. On my last blog I was getting a bit dejected, still unable to find a method for the crux move despite trying seemingly everything.
Well, I have surprised myself in managing to find a method to (sort of) do all the moves! How can you sort of do the moves?Technically speaking I have done them, I’ve pulled on each move and climbed the whole thing in three sections actually. But I'm aware that the sections in the crux don’t completely link as my highpoint into the crux move has my body hanging a little lower in a kneebar than where I’ve pulled on and actually done the crux. I won't totally know it will work for me until I can link through the entire section of about 7 hand moves.
So there is much, much progress still to be made before I even have a feeling it’s possible for me. But just finding a method that would clearly work for ‘some’ climber is superb progress.
Plus, each session I’m still making small improvements and learning new details about the sequence. Now that I’m properly starting to link moves together on it, I’m seeing how to make everything more efficient and getting the excitement of envisioning actually climbing right through the sequence.
It still feels very intimidating for me though, until I’m really warmed up the holds just feel terrible. While the Lochaber downpour rules for the next few day, I have some homework; stick to my diet, go for some soggy runs, make a new kneepad and do some much needed antagonist work for my brachioradialis which are not enjoying the repetitive compression moves.
I’m in the long bit in the middle between the excitement of finding a new project and finally seeing it through to an ever uncertain outcome. Let the battle sessions roll on...


  1. Any more details about what exercises you'll be doing for brachioradialis rehab?

  2. No offense intended, but it amazes me that you can find still more hard boulder projects in Scotland.
    I never hear about other people in Scotland doing hard new problems. Is the quality akin to better known boulder areas (Hueco, Font, etc.) but just not as much rock concentration, or not as many climbers pushing it? If they are rare, how are you finding them?
    A quick post about that process, and your climbing community, would be fun to read.

  3. Bruce - That makes me smile! You know most countries have tons of good rock that is just little known because there are few climbers. Scotland is a country full of mountains and rock but very few climbers. The boulders are as good as anywhere but just a bit more spread out.

    Ally - I'm still writing my book on climbing injury avoidance and rehab. But press-ups, stretches and a change of scenery in the climbing pretty much to the trick for Font elbow.

  4. Kneebar?! All this bouldering, Dave, but you're still a trad climber at heart!