Thursday 22 February 2007

First part of my project complete

Working on the crux section of Sanction yesterday while trying the big linkup. Photo thanks to Stone Country

Yesterday was a good day at Dumbarton Rock. I turned up to find Malcolm Smith had just repeated my problem from last winter Pressure, confirming the Font 8b grade and looking like he enjoyed it. I came to continue working on a line coming out of the left side of the Sabotage roof. I've been trying it for two years or more. It's classic Dumby technical and although I spent a stupid amount of time trying countless different methods, I knew just from looking at the rock, that there was a sequence there, I just needed to find it. Finally I worked it out and yesterday I linked it to give a new Font 8b - 'Sanction'. It climbs from a sit start following the line of holds across the left side of the roof through a sloping ramp feature, pulling onto the left side of the BNI slab.

This is a really logical line, but my real goal is to climb the roof traverse (taken by Perfect Crime) and link this into Sanction. This way you'd be climbing the whole roof in it's entirety. After I'd done the sitter I got further than I expected on the link up. So now I feel that I should drop some other plans and concentrate on this until its done. It would be a worthy hardest problem at the rock. The psyche is on.

It was a major relief that the PIP joint of my little finger seems to be reasonably stable again and is giving me few problems once warmed up. Heres hoping it can take the punishment coming up over the next couple of weeks.

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