Thursday 22 March 2007

Ben Nevis with Alicia

Starting up FWA Steam Train VI,7, Ben Nevis

Alicia fights with the blizzard on Pitch 1 of Steam Train
Steam Train, summer HVS 5a, winter VI,7

Alicia on Pitch 3. There was a perfect torquing crack in the corner. Mixed climbing heaven.

Nice lashes

Alicia was over from the states and keen to climb in Scotland. It was snowing hard in Dumbarton, so we figured winter climbing was the best plan. There was a high avalanche risk and Alicia need to catch here flight at nine so we needed a short route low on the mountain. I suggested a summer HVS on NE buttress that to my knowledge hadn't been done in winter. We climbed it in pretty heavy conditions. What an excellent climb though - bold bits, safe bits, thank god cracks and difficult cruxes. Alicia missed her flight to London but we agreed it was worth it for a great day out and not a bad route for your first mixed route! Thank god for the sleeper train which saved the day for Alicia.

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