Tuesday 20 October 2009

Back to the wall

I used up the last of my mini-peak on my Sky Pilot project and all the rest was making me lose fitness, with no sign of success imminent just yet. So it was a great relief to get back to training every day. When I say great relief, I just mean I hate hate hate losing fitness, and love gaining it, simple as that. I still haven't even scratched the surface of using my board to it’s full extent, and quite perversely looking forward to the dark winter months of full scale daily training on it. 

Starting to train with axes again for winter gave my elbow a bit of a fright, which was worrying. But this was followed by a bit of a kickstart and it seems stronger than ever.

Tomorrow: 4 hours training, 12 hours book writing, many cups of tea, few meals, large bags under eyes.

Thusrday: I’m speaking in Dundee, see you there.


  1. Hi Dave!

    In a german climbing forum, we're just having a discussion about the starting training regimes and the question, if you should use full crimps in training (on the wall & fingerboard).
    Someone quoted from the book "One move too many" where the author (a doctor, in germany a well known specialist for climbing injuries, bouldering ~F7c himself, who coaches many top climbers) states, that you can prepare for crimps outside by training with an open grip, which yields nearly the same strength gains but without the high risk of injury.
    Is this possible? Can you omit full crimps in training? Or are they really necessary?

    Thanks a lot and thanks for the inspiration your blog provides!


  2. Hi David, I wrote an answer on my online climbing coach blog for you here: