Thursday 1 June 2006

Nice little find

Akita Boulder (NC 203 577)
This superb gneiss boulder sits below a small outcrop on the headland south of Oldshoremore. Steep on three sides with excellent quality, clean rock, crimpy and powerful climbing. The landing is assorted rocks which is great for keeping feet dry but not so nice to land on so a big mat is useful. Approach: Turn off for Oldshoremore and take the left hand fork immediately after. Follow this to the end of the tarmac and park in a small lay by. Ascend the slope above the road and walk due south, crossing a couple of faint ridges crowned by curious small erratics. The boulderfield and outcrop above is obvious in a small valley not far above the shore. 15 mins.

1 90’s Rock Font 6b+ ***
A first class problem taking the steep crack and right arête, starting from the obvious incut jug. A little scary at the top.
2 Project about Font 7b/c.

3 Something Worth Crimping For Font 7a **
The leaning wall left of the arête. Sit start as for Kobi then move left and crimp your way up the wall. Superb.
4 Kobi Font 6b+ *The arête. Sit start using a nice undercut. Pull past the good jugs and make a couple of thin moves.
5 Akita Font 6b+ *
Just right of the arête. Sit start as for Kobi, reach a small pocket and finish directly.
6 Growlers Font 6c
Start as for Akita, get the pocket with your left hand (more difficult) and finish rightwards.
7 Rubbish Guard Dog Font 6b+ *
Low sit start on good crimps. Lock off for a good incut and continue direct. Only 6a+ starting at the incut.


1 comment:

  1. Anonymous03 June, 2006

    Good to see you back climbing other things after Rhapsody. Well done on a stonker of a climb and keep up the good work!