With a top class forecast we were in a rush to get onto the walk-in to the Ben before 6am and get amongst it. After two frustrating failures so far this winter, I was pretty damn determined to top out on one of these new routes. Repeating other peoples routes is so much easier than climbing new routes.
Very happy to finally be out winter climbing
We headed for Trident Buttress and a chimney line I’d spotted with a large roof in it. The roof had some nice continental style icicles on the lip. I gingerly leaned out and began hitting them to figure out if they would take my weight. Err, no. I did a great job of repeatedly trying to take Michael out with huge ice missiles. A swooping throw of the ice axe saw off the roof, But the following pitch didn’t go so well.
I tried to climb a sketchy overhanging wall and spent two hours getting pumped and scared, only to come down in despair. Must get better at mixed climbing…
A nice start to the season
Start left of The Minge, below a roofed chimney. Climb the chimney with hard moves through the roof and the continuation corner above, to excite left onto a ledge underneath an overhanging wall. Traverse left for 5m and round to the base of a large slanting corner (common to 1944 route). Climb the corner and crawl right along a thin ledge to another corner which leads to the top.