Wednesday 25 April 2007

Back to reality

Return of the westerly winds of friction, but it didn't make any difference!

Spring is great when the fresh westerlies return - sunshine, clear air and nice ambience
Today was back to my normal climbing experience - getting slapped by the desperateness of my project. I got a little excited by getting over my mental block on the big dyno at the end. I did the move again and it felt ok. Now all I need to do is climb another 25 moves into it! The mental block came from 2 things - taking a bad fall, nearly breaking my nose and dislocating my pinky. And also because the harder I try to resist the wild swing the more I can feel my skin ripping on the tiny spike for my left. I was feeling stronger again after three days rest to recover split tips. But seems like my fears on the spike were justified as I split my tip once again on this hold and it was game over for another day (and the next two).
So, back to plasters and office work until the weekend, and worrying about loss of endurance for the Anvil project. Hopefully one handed fingerboarding until Saturday will restore some sense of not being a couch potato. I need to save the frustration to unleash on the Anvil roof on Sat...


  1. Lots of finger tape on that finger, so that you can use the spike in comfort? Either that or put a piece of tape on the hold. Had to do that in Dartmoor once. The crystals there can be like razor blades. =)

  2. Thanks for the suggestion Phil, only problem is the hold is a two finger quarter joint edge in a roof and I need to support most of my body weight on it. The bite into the skin is the only way the hold actually works. I probably couldnt even hang it with tape on.