Wednesday 11 April 2007

Set in Motion

I sneaked out to the boulders after work tonight and straight away felt the benefit of the Anvil day. For sure the Anvil is an excellent place to get in shape. It probably matches Dumbarton in this respect actually! I completed a new problem I’d looked at last week and tried a few days ago. It starts in the Mugsy roof, left of ‘Spam’ on an obvious three finger incut. If you know the roof it’s the one you use for your foot on Mugsy traverse. Anyway, you do three desperate moves on crimpers to get the Mugsy Traverse rail and finish up this. I’ve not idea what grade it is as its ages since I’ve done a boulder problem that only took two sessions to complete! Let’s say 7c for now and I’ll point Malcolm in its direction if I see him down there. There’s nothing like a boost of confidence and next up I repeated Malc’s new problem ‘The Serum of Sisyphus’. As with most things it felt OK in the end but reckon its still Font 8a+.

The rest of the night was spent dodging neds and trying moves on some other things. It’s unbelievable that these boulders keep yielding new lines to climb, but they do! Now I have another burly line to keep me busy for the rest of the good spring conds, maybe 8a+ again but we’ll see? This one has six or seven British 6c moves one after the other. Better get some good nights sleep over the next two weeks…

The new prob:

Set in Motion Font 7c

Sit Start at the incut three finger crimp in the roof under Mugsy Traverse, in the middle of the passageway underneath the boulder. Crimp desperately upwards to grab the Mugsy Traverse slopers (hard to hold the swing). Finish up Mugsy.

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