Wednesday 14 May 2008

Today's psyche level

The extreme snow throwing training paid off – today, the bottom third of Echo Wall was dry enough to abseil down and begin actually climbing!!! In my 2006 sessions I was unable to down-aid through the initial twelve metres of 45 degree overhanging wall. With some acrobatics and more sussed ropework I managed it tonight and for the first time I have a sense of what the whole climb is. The 45 wall looks about 8a+ up to the roof below the crux section. The climbing looks exquisite and there is some gear too. I cannot wait to get working on those holds now they are getting cleaned up. It was a real eye opener to get back on the crux though. In 2006 it felt utterly sick and seemed significantly harder than Rhapsody (my best effort at the time). I figured It would be realistic if I could come back climbing 9a. Hey presto – it felt realistic!

I could do the moves quickly. YEEEEESSSSS! One thing I forgot was how amazing the rock is. It’s quite simply the best piece of rock I’ve ever touched.

I can’t tell you how excited I am to get into the flow of working on these moves over the next few months. I feel that I have got to the basic level of fitness required to begin working on this route now. The approach is taking less effort, I am dealing better with the daily routine of expending a lot of energy, and I am in the flow of the logistics of managing the work.

But now it’s time for a short break. Tomorrow I go to Argyll with Claire to watch my friend get married.
Last light this evening in Coire Leis.


  1. Anonymous15 May, 2008

    "9a" ... "basic level of fitness"

    you're on a different planet, dave. Good luck with this, I'm eager to hear how it plans out...

  2. Anonymous16 May, 2008

    I love how much work you are putting into this. Keep up the good work bro.

    After watching E11, I felt the need to workout a lot more and get stronger to complete the climbs I strive for. I owe this all to your inspiring movie.

    Climb on!

    ~John K.

  3. Anonymous16 May, 2008

    very nice blog... keep up the good work.. God Bless!!!